In recent years, we have been dividing our time almost equally between travelling in the Americas in Cloud 9 and being back in the UK, either staying with family or travelling in our other camper.
Our journey back to Cloud 9 in Oaxaca, Mexico, was trouble free. We are always a bit nervous about returning, especially after more than 6 months. You are never sure what surprises you might get.
On first inspection, the truck appeared to be exactly as we left it, but during the first night we became aware that we were not alone and that we had picked up a few dozen freeloaders..... Cockroaches.
Although relatively harmless in that they don't carry diseases or eat through your furniture, the thought of them scurrying around in the night and hiding in dark corners during the day was an issue.
Once we got the vehicle back to our favourite camp ground "El Rancho" in Tule, we quickly employed a local guy to sort them out. He explained that this was a very common situation and relatively easy to resolve, but would require us to empty the entire vehicle so that he could spray his chemicals into every corner and crevice. As all Overlanders will tell you, emptying the entire vehicle is a real pain, so we were especially thrilled when he told us that he had to come back in two weeks time and do it all again.
Unfortunately, we also discovered that we had somehow developed a crack in the windsceen, whilst the vehicle had been in storage. We have no clue how this happened, but it was creeping south down the screen
We contacted a Windscreen company who injected it with resin to stop it getting any worse. This has worked really well on that crack. However, another crack running parralel has now appeared. I think the screen will need replacing soon.
With Christmas rapidly approaching, we were determined not to let these small setbacks spoil the festivities.
Pat made me construct a Christmas tree out of some old scrap metal hinges that I had replaced on the cupboards in the truck.
Christmas is big in Latin America, and every small town really makes a great effort to embrace the fun. Tule is no exception.
Before leaving the UK we had ordered a new Roof Fan to be delivered to us in Mexico. As usual the customs had taken a great interest in it and it soon became apparent that we weren't going to get it any day soon. Knowing it would take several weeks we started to work through the inevitable list of jobs that needed doing on the truck. All overlanders know about this list.
Our step needed a complete overhaul. The brakes need some love, and we had developed some minor spots of superficial corrosion that had to be stopped in their tracks.
Our friends Doris and Herbert directed us to an auto paint shop where the young girl mixed some new paint for us by eye. It was a perfect match, without the use of any technology.
Cloud 9 has a flexible connection, known as a crawl through, that connects the cab to the cabin. It's made if two aluminium frames and Neoprene. Over the years the Neoprene has endured endless sun and UV . It had started to deteriorate. We bought with us a new sheet and created a new Crawl through.
At Christmas time, the big day in Latin America is the night of the 24th. Our traditional Christmas Day, on the 25th, is relatively quiet and relaxed. We booked a table at a local restaurant and selected typical Oaxacan items from the menu.
The biggest job, well, most expensive, was replacing the 4 tyres. They have done us well. We have put about 85000 km on them and never had an issue. Not even a puncture. Although the old ones still had quite a lot of visible tread, they had now reached about 15 years old and had spent a lot of time sitting in the sun. This is never good for tyres.
Pat spent ages and eventually located the tyres on an online supplier called "The Tyre Club", who were very helpful and very patient with our appalling command of Spanish. The second issue was finding a local garage to take delivery and fit them for us. At least 30 garages were contacted, who didnt want to know.
Eventually, we found a guy who only dealt in second hand tyres. After many pleading messages, he agreed to take delivery and fit them.
The day came for the switch. I have never enjoyed watching tyre fitters more. The boss man and his employee turned out to be the nicest people ever and we really enjoyed working with them.
It was facinating to watch them work together.
Street dogs are everywhere in Mexico. Surprisingly, most of them do OK but are always happy to have a little help. A friend of ours "Anke" is dedicated to helping those local to the campground in El Tule. Pat was happy to help out, but it was a constant battle to stop her from bringing one home.
We had ordered a new roof fan. We have fitted three Maxfanns, all of which have failed. We decided to go with the new kid on the block called Nomadic Ark, who make a similar product.
Getting things delivered in foreign countries can be a real pain. Firstly it ends up costing twice as much and secondly you end up in a daily battle with the customs. Pat was in touch with the customs and DHL every day for several weeks.
Eventually, our roof fan cleared customs and was delivered. It was fitted and we set off south towards the Pacific Coast.
It's worth noting that about one month after fitting, it failed completely.
Just west of Puerto Escondido, we managed to catch up with our dear friends Spencer and Cathy. These guys have toured the world on a motorcycle , but in recent years have made this part of Mexico their home.
We headed south along the Pacific Coast, spending a few days in some of our favourite spots, such as Zipolite and Bahia San Agustin.
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We set off for the border, but didn't get far. There is a notorious section of road ( Ruta 200 ) that runs parallel to the Pacific coast near La Venta. The area is famous for high winds and is the home of hundreds of wind turbines.
Unfortunately, the road is regularly closed to high sided vehicles, because the winds are too strong. This was one of those occasions, and we had to sit it out for a few days at Playa Bamba
The winds dropped, and we headed for Central America again.
Four of the Central American Countries have formed an alliance known as the CA4. They work together on trade and immigration issues. They are Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua. When you enter the first one, you are given 90 days in your passport to pass through all four. Last year we entered Guatemala with a view to travelling into El Salvador, which is the only CA4 country we hadn't been to. Unfortunately, we were completely seduced by the beauty of Guatemala and the food in the city of Antigua. Day 89 came, and we were still in the first country.
This year, we were determined to make it to El Salvador.
We crossed into Guatemala, and it instantly felt comfortable. We headed for Antigua to meet up with our old friends Sandie and Karsten again.
You may remember from our last Blog that the exhaust fell off the truck in Mexico. We had a new silencer fitted, but the entire exhaust system is now 14 years old.
Well it happened in San Sebastian, it all fell off again . this time, breaking nearer the front.
It fell out the back onto the road, but was luckily avoided by the traffic. We were unable to stop immediately. I went to retrieve it to discover that a very kind guy with a pickup truck had already done so and brought it back to us.
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Antigua is situated in the shadow of a very active Volcano called "Fuego". It didn't disapoint us, bursting into life about every 15 minutes.
The city of Antigua is one of our most favourite places in Central America, but it is really not good for the waistline.
Sometimes coincidences happen.
Our cabin was constructed by a relatively small family firm in Germany called Ormocar.
What are the chances of 3 vehicles with cabins made by Ormocar all tuning up on the same campground in Guatemala at the same time.
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We were now nearing the border with El Salvador. One more stop at Camping La Combi near Barrio El Campamento.
We have rarely had such an enthusiastic welcome. The owner not only produced a British flag for, but also set out two chairs in the perfect position to watch the sun go down.
We are really looking forward to El Salvador as it will be our 26th country with Cloud 9
